2019年是個太棒的年份,不僅是個”亞洲年“,還是個”女性之年“。又一位女性新晉世界咖啡師大賽(WBC)的冠軍抬頭 – 來自韓國釜山Momos Coffee的Jooyeon Jeon。
Jeon有著10年的比賽經歷,今年的比賽流程從一開始就讓人眼前一亮。首先是自己坐在桌子上,然後邀請評委們像親密的朋友一樣坐下來,擺台也就像在真實的咖啡館裡一樣。15分鐘下來,Jeon的眼神中永遠帶著光,親和的笑容
圖片來自:幕後”黑“手
討論咖啡中的甜感來源,已不是最新的課題。可是將咖啡中的碳水化合物逐一拆解,並重新組合,以及用到”臨界(Subcritical)“才是這一次Jeon的創新。
比賽臺詞
中英文
Hello judges! There has never been a better time in history to drink coffee. Farmers, roasters and baristas are now connected and collaborating to create higher quality coffee than ever before. That’s how I found that Carbohydrates in coffee are very important for taste balance. These clipboards have all the information I will share with you today. Hold on to it and feel free to use it as reference…now, please take a seat and get comfortable!…I want all of us to feel close and enjoy my coffee as friends so… say hello to each other and let’s get started!
Hello 評委們!沒有比現在更棒的咖啡時代了。咖農們、咖啡師們、和烘焙師們一同攜手,將咖啡的品質不斷提高。也正是因為這樣,我發現了咖啡中的碳水化合物(別名:糖類化合物)對於味覺平衡的重要性。在這個資訊板上,有我今天所有想要和你們分享的資訊,請拿著它,你們可以隨時參考上面的資訊。現在,請讓自己舒服地坐下。我希望我們都可以親密一些,就像我的朋友一樣在這裡喝咖啡。請互相打個招呼,然後我們就開始了!
Carbohydrates are basically sugars that can be divided into 4 categories: MONOSACCHARIDES, contain only 1 sugar molecule; DISACCHARIDES, contain 2; OLIGOSACCHARIDES, contain 3 to 10; and POLYSACCHARIDES, contain many more.
碳水化合物基本上就是“糖”,分為4大類: MONOSACCHARIDES 只有一個糖分子的單糖;DISACCHARIDES 雙糖;OLIGOSACCHARIDES 寡糖,普遍由3-10單糖分子聚合而成;POLYSACCHARIDES 多糖,有很多很多糖分子。
The less sugar molecules, the sweeter they taste. Today I will focus on the specific ones linked to my coffee… and how they contribute to the drinks I will be serving you today.
越少的糖分子,喝起來就越甜。今天,我只會著重於和我的咖啡相關的糖分子,並且為你們解釋他們為我的咖啡帶來了什麼。
My coffee is a SIDRA varietal… which is a cross between Bourbon and Typica… It comes from Colombia and It is produced by Felipe and Sebastian in their farm La Palma & El Tucan…located at eighteen hundred meters between the high peaks of the Andes mountains and the low region of Tolima.
我的咖啡是SIDRA豆種,是波旁和鐵皮卡的雜交種。它來自哥倫比亞,Felipe和Sebastian的La Palma & El Tucan莊園,位於海拔1800米的安第斯山脈的高峰間,和Tolima地區的低地。
Cold winds from the Andes and warm winds from Tolima create drastic temperature ranges at the farm. This causes stress to the plantation, but the resulting effect is very positive.
來自安第斯山脈的冷風和Tolima地區的暖風,給咖啡莊園帶來了激烈的溫差。這給種植工作帶來了很多壓力,但結果卻是好的。
It develops more carbohydrates in the cherries and 65% more mucilage.
這樣激烈的溫差使得咖啡鮮果中產生更多的碳水化合物以及比正常咖啡鮮果多出65%的果膠。
This makes my coffee taste sweeeter and have a more complex cup profile.
這讓我的咖啡喝起來甜感更高,並且風味更豐富、層次感更豐富。
I’m using 22 grams IN, 45 grams OUT with water at 92 degrees celsius for a 20% extraction.
我的製作參數是22克咖啡粉,45克咖啡液體,92°的水,20%的萃取率。
I will use this same recipe for all my drinks… because this is where I found the best taste balance and sensory expression of my coffee
我將用同樣的參數製作今天所有的咖啡,因為這是最能展現這支咖啡最佳風味平衡和感官體驗的參數。
Coming up is the milk beverage. This is frozen whole milk that has been melting slowly. Most of the water content stays frozen on the top and what drips to the bottom is milk with a higher concentration of fats and carbohydrates. So here, I have sweeter and creamier milk.
接下來是牛奶咖啡。我使用的是經過冷凍然後再慢慢溶化的全脂牛奶。上半部分是冷凍住的水分,而下班部分流下來的是飽含脂肪和碳水化合物的牛奶。所以,我的牛奶更甜、更濃郁。
凍牛奶收集器
圖片來自:Echo Lou
The sweetness comes from Lactose, which is a carbohydrate called Disaccharide that has 2 sugar molecules bonded together: Glucose and Galactose. When I steam I will split them apart into single sugar molecules called Monosaccharides.
乳糖,是一種雙糖,由半乳糖和葡萄糖相連組成,是甜感的來源。當我用蒸汽打發時,便會把他們分離成獨立的單糖。
These are the carbohydrates we can taste the most Glucose provides sweetness and Galactose contributes with body.
這些是我們可以喝到的碳水化合物 – 基本上葡萄糖提供了甜感,而半乳糖貢獻了醇厚度。
My coffee is a natural process, fermented for 48 hours in sealed tanks with very little oxygen. This kind of fermentation breaks down the carbohydrates in the cherries…and also increases the concentration of lactic acid, which contributes to the body, fruit flavors, and tartaric acidity of my coffee.
我的咖啡是日曬處理,在密封的發酵罐裡,在有極少量氧氣的情況下發酵48小時。這種發酵方式將咖啡鮮果中的碳水化合物分離,並且提高了乳酸的濃度,因此為我的咖啡帶來了醇厚度、水果調性的風味、以及酒石酸。
This process is done at the farm where the humidity is very high. That is why, after fermentation, the coffee is moved into a greenhouse to dry on raised beds.
處理這支咖啡豆的咖啡莊園的濕度非常高。正因此,發酵之後的咖啡鮮果會被搬移到溫室中,然後放在晾曬床上乾燥。
Inside the greenhouse, the humidity is controlled using bio char and fans.
在溫室中,濕度是由生物炭和風扇控制的。
After 12 days, the coffee is moved to mechanical silos to finish the drying.
12天之後,咖啡被移到機械的乾燥倉進行最後的乾燥過程。
This combined drying system is connected to the flavor clarity of my coffee.
這種多種乾燥方式相結合的乾燥系統讓我的咖啡風味更清晰。
I am steaming to… 50 degrees celsius for optimal sweetness.
我將牛奶打法到50°,達到最佳的甜感。
This drink will have a 7mm foam for a smooth and creamy texture. It has a 1… to 3 ratio to balance the milk with my espresso.
這個牛奶咖啡會有7毫米的奶泡,帶有順化、綿密的口感。濃縮與牛奶的比例是1;3.
So Tasting notes! You will taste caramelized almonds, white chocolate, and dried berries. It reminds me of nougat ice cream
風味描述:你們會喝到焦糖化的杏仁、白巧克力、莓果乾,讓我想起牛軋糖冰淇淩!
Please enjoy!
請享用!
By freezing and melting my milk I changed the carbohydrate content from 5% to 11%.
通過冷凍之後再溶解我的牛奶,我將碳水化合物成分從5%改變到11%。
When combined with my espresso it creates a drink that feels sweet, nutty and creamy.
當與我的濃縮結合,就變成了一杯甜甜的、堅果調性的、濃郁的牛奶咖啡。
Again, you will taste caramelized almonds, white chocolate, and dried berries. Just like nougat ice cream.
再一次,你們會喝到焦糖化的杏仁,白巧克力和莓果乾,就像牛軋糖冰淇淩!
Please enjoy! I will be back soon with the espressos course.
請享用,我馬上回來為您端上我的濃縮咖啡。
圖片來自:幕後”黑“手
Polysaccharides and Sucrose are the 2 main carbohydrates in green coffee. Both are converted into compounds that contribute to the taste of my coffee.
多糖和蔗糖是咖啡生豆中的兩大碳水化合物,他們都轉換成了影響我的咖啡味道的化合物。
However, upon roasting most of the Sucrose decreases to about 1%. Polysaccharides are more stable and end up being 40%。
但是,在烘焙過程中蔗糖的比例降至1%,而多糖則更穩定,比例為40%。
To develop the sensory properties of my coffee, I controlled the roast with a decreasing rate of rise.
為了開發出這支咖啡的感官特性,我將烘焙的上升率(RoR)控制在一個下降的趨勢。
The total roasting time was 10 minutes with a 10% development.
我的烘焙時間為10分鐘,10%的發展率。
This roast profile reduces both carbohydrate loss and organic acid degradation. This allows the sweetness, fruit flavors and tartaric acidity of my coffee to come through.
這個烘焙曲線即降低了碳水化合物的流失,又減少了有機酸的毀壞。這樣才讓這支咖啡中的甜、水果調性的風味以及酒石酸凸顯出來。
So, tasting notes!
好了,風味描述!
圖片來自:Echo Lou
Medium high acidity and medium high sweetness, balanced by a medium low bitterness.
中高的酸,中高的甜,以及中低的苦來平衡這杯濃縮咖啡。
You will taste grapes, blackberry, plums and raisins. The texture is silky, medium weight and has a long pleasant finish.
你們可以喝到葡萄、藍莓、李子和葡萄乾。口腔觸感是絲滑的,中等的醇厚度(口腔重量)以及悠長的、愉悅的餘韻。
Please enjoy! You can return the spoons back in here.
請享用!你們可以把用過的小勺放在這裡。
JUDGES! Please come and join me over here at the edge of the table! 2 on each side of the table please! Head judge… you can stand right here.
好了評委們!請過來我這邊,並且請在桌子的兩側各站兩位,主評委,您可以站在這裡。
Every time we brew coffee or espresso, we are not tasting everything it offers. The reason is that most of the carbohydrates disappear during roasting. The only exception are Polysaccharides. But, we are not tasting them because they cannot be extracted by brewing and stay in the ground coffee
每當我們喝濃縮或者沖煮咖啡時,其實我們沒有喝到這杯咖啡的全部。原因是大部分的碳水化合物在烘焙期間就消失了,只有“多糖”是個例外。當時我們依然喝不到它,因為正常的咖啡沖煮是無法將它萃取出來的。
So, I used SubCritical technology to extract the Polysaccharides from my coffee. I used a 25 gram espresso puck from my coffee and 700 grams of water, then applied 2000 pounds of pressure with a temperature of 180 degrees for 5 minutes. Next, we removed the coffee and freeze dried the liquid.
所以,我用了”臨界“技術將”多糖“從我的咖啡中萃取出來。我用25克來自今天這支咖啡的粉餅,加上700克的水,之後用溫度是180°的2000磅壓力,加壓5分鐘。再然後,我們將咖啡粉移出,凍幹剩下的液體。
However, we cannot feel the taste of Polysaccharides even after it has been extracted. Please grab the spoon in front of you and try it. You will not taste anything.
但是,就算“多糖”像這樣被萃取出來,我們也喝不到任何味道。請拿起你們面前的小勺(勺中是萃取出的多糖),試一試。你們嘗不出任何東西。
To be able to taste this Polysaccharide I used malt enzymes to break it down into a Disaccharide.
為了能嘗到這個多糖,我使用了麥芽酶去分離雙糖。
I mixed 4 grams of Polysaccharide with 1 gram of malt and 20 grams of water. I waited for 6 hours and then filtered the liquid. This increased the Glucose content 35 times!
我將4克的多糖與1克的麥芽和20克的水混合,之後等待6個小時,最後將液體過濾。這使葡萄糖含量提升了35倍之多!
I have the liquid ready right here and it will be the FIRST ingredient of my signature drink. It is VERY VERY SPECIAL because it captures a sweetness that had never been exposed before. I will use 20 grams.
在這裡,我有做好的液體,它將是我今天創意咖啡的第一個成分。這個成分非常非常特別!因為它獲取了以前從來沒有被“曝光”的甜。今天我會用20克。
The SECOND ingredient is starch. I chose it because starch is an Oligosaccharide, which is a carbohydrate that was completely lost during roasting. It will improve the texture of the drink. I’m adding 4 grams. Using it will increase the Sucrose 25 times!
第二個成分是澱粉。因為澱粉是寡糖,在烘焙過程中會完完全全消失。澱粉會改善這杯飲品的觸感,我加了4克。加過之後,蔗糖含量增加了25倍!
The THIRD ingredient is a Monosaccharide. It is a blackberry reduction that was simmered for 2 hours. But in this drink it tastes like black cherry. This adds 30 times more Fructose and it will provide balance to the drink. I’m adding 12 grams.
第三個成分是單糖,是慢燉了2個小時的黑莓。它喝起來就像是黑莓,使這杯飲品的果糖增加了30倍,並且起到了平衡的作用。我加了12克。
創意咖啡成分
圖片來自 Echo Lou
The last and most important ingredient is the espressos. I cooled them down to highlight the acidity and open up the flavors.
最後一個也是最重要的成分是濃縮咖啡。我將他們降溫,去凸顯它的酸,以及將風味打開。
This drink is REALLY EXCITING because I reincorporated the carbohydrates that disappeared during roasting! and also because it REVEALS a sweetness from my coffee that couldn’t be extracted before!!!
這杯創意咖啡實在是太讓人期待了!因為我將烘焙過程中消失的碳水化合物重新組合起來!以及之前這支咖啡無法被萃取出的甜,也在這一杯咖啡中!
This sweetness feels like sugar cane. In this drink you will enjoy a medium body with a soft velvety texture. You will taste BLACK CHERRY with a slight winey sensation from the GRAPE and PLUM flavors of my espresso. It will remind me of a delicious SANGRIA.
這個甜喝起來像蔗糖。在這杯咖啡中,你們可以喝到中等的醇厚度,帶有柔軟絲滑的觸感。你們還會喝到黑莓的味道,其中帶著一絲絲來自於葡萄的紅酒感覺,以及來自於濃縮咖啡的李子風味。喝起來讓我想到一杯美美的西班牙桑格利亞酒!
乾杯!
圖片來自:Echo Lou
This drink is a bit warm and I’m serving it in tasting glasses to elevate the sensory experience. But before you taste it, let’s celebrate this amazing coffee, so,… please lift your glasses and let’s toast together…CHEERS! Now, just enjoy!
這杯創意咖啡有一點點熱,我會將它倒入專門的品鑒杯中,為了提升它的感官體驗。但是在你們喝之前,讓我們一起來為這支這麼贊的咖啡慶祝一下,所以,請舉起你的杯子,讓我們乾杯!
現在,請享用!
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